No spesific case here. Just wanted to air your methods on how you go about troubleshooting parasitic drain on newer cars with plenty of modules, Each fuse you pull and the data bus is live again and so on.....
I (thankfully) don't see a ton of this, but voltage dropping fuses is my usual go-to test. After verifying the presence of a draw in the first place, of course.
Always trying to avoid disconnecting the battery to install a DVOM, so I'll usually hook up a low amp probe first, to attempt to gauge the severity of the draw. I've found that draws below 200mA are difficult for the low amp probe to measure accurately, so the ammeter still comes out at times.
I personally have some reservations about using the voltage drop to make a determination about the specific amount of a draw. The chart suggests you can make accurate measurements this way, but I believe live circuits are too dynamic to be charted like this. More often, I'll use the voltage drop method to find suspect circuits, and switch to other methods from there.
the fuse voltage drop measurement really works. It is even the recommended method by some manufactorers like VW, Audi etc.
You might wanna build a test circuit with a couple of LED's, install a fuse into the circuit and measure current flow and voltage drop over the fuse.
Another option to find small drains once you installed an ampmeter in series and the modules went a sleep is to pull a fuse and NOT to reinstall if the current drain doesn't change. Proceed with the next fuse(s) til the ampmeter readingchanges.
The most difficult to trace I ever had was down to the antenna for the key transponder on a Lucas 5AS imobilizer system. As on this system the transponder was optional the cure was simply to unplug the antenna, the downside being the driver has to press the unlock button on the fob imediately before starting the engine and to restart if the engine stalled.
The heaviest drain I ever encountered was through the alternator. The alternator was still managing to charge around 13.4 to 13.7 volts but when the engine was stopped about 15 to 25 amps was leaking back through the alternator.
The fuse voltage drop would never work with my UNI-T UT203 meter but my new Owon B35T meter claims to have a resolution of 0.01mv +or- 5% +2 digits so 0.1mv or even 0.05mv should be just about measurable.